“Yebo, amabutho kaJoji waseNgilandi aqotho impela. Okwempela uJoji nami singabanawe; usebanqobile bonke abamhlophe njengoba nami ngibanqobile abamnyama. Akenisho, uJoji lona muhle njenganmi na?” Inkosi uShaka kaSenzangakhona (1787-1828) “Yes, the armies of George IV of England are strong indeed. In fact, George and I are brothers. He has defeated all of the white people whereas I have defeated all of the blacks. But tell me, is King George good looking like me?” King Shaka (1787-1828) Yes, that was what I had to translate today. The Napoleon of Southern Africa, one of the greatest military strategists of all time, and one of his first questions was whether or not he was hotter than King George. [By the way, you be the judge. Shaka: http://www.whsliberalarts.org/zulu-king-shaka-zulu.jpg George: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d7/George_IV_van_het_Verenigd_Koninkrijk.jpg I know, I know.] But this is a typical day in Pietermaritzburg now: I get up at 6 am , go for a run, shower, grab a cup of coffee at a local cafe while reading Zulu, then head to class at 830, where I either do grammar, read Zulu literature or stories, and learn tons of new vocabulary and tenses (remote past progressive, anyone?) before a tea break and then a lunch break at 12:45. From then it’s either Zulu writing or Zulu history from 2-4, then tutoring in speaking Zulu from 5-7, then homework from about 7-9. That is, when we’re not watchign the surprising successes of both the U.S. and the South African (bafanabafana) soccer teams! This past weekend was a definite break from routine, however. Saturday we all tramped out for a visit to Ecabazini, which is a traditional Zulu farm run by a white man (*i know*) who speaks fluent Zulu and has been accepted by the local community and even is in training to become a sangoma, or a traditional herbal healer. The farm has two components, a real, self-sustaining farm populated by rural Zulus that make a living off their products and that is green and self-sustaining to the point that they make their own electricity and produce their own propane (from cow dung–which was pretty dang amazing), and the other part is a ’show’ kraal or umuzi (homestead), that demonstrates rural Zulu lives, traditions, and cultural values. It’s a pretty amazing place. We fumbled in our Zulu for words like cattle raising, government plans, and the verb to milk, but then we got hands on experience doing everythign from milking Zulu cattle to cleaning a traaditional Zulu homestead. Zulu traditional homes (izindlu) are made with packed dirt floors often taken from termite nests for added strength. And in order to clean these floors, after they’ve been muddied by rain or excessive tracking, you have to resurface them. With cow dung. Guess whose job that was? Yep. For those of you who have seen the film “Amelie,” remember the early scene where she thinks records are made like pancakes? As in they’re spread on in a thick shiny coating that is then thinned and made even? You don’t? Well, that’s what T.J. did on Satufday, except using wet cow shit in his hands over a dirt floor. And yes, it was awesome. DOnt’ be jealous. We also had a fantastic day trying Zulu steamed bread (ujeqe), and roasted beef (inyama yenkomo yosilwe). We then were tricked into attempting Zulu dancing with everyone. Mercifully, I do not believe there are pictures of this. I will be including pictures of me spreading poop on a floor to clean it in the next email, however. So be excited! Finally, Sunday dawned bright and clear, our first free day of the trip. Even more coincidentally, my advisor at Illinois was in Durban (40 miles or so away), and we made plans to hang out, because, quite frnkly, nothing is more awesome than meeting your academic hero/life coach/friend/life-urger whilst sitting on the Indian Ocean. I took a khumbi, a tightly packed taxi (that in the past five years since I was last here are now officially regulated vehicles, interestingly enough), that took an hour to drive to eThewkini, the coastal city of Durban, at the amazing price of 40 rand (approx. $5). Professor Burton had her entire family in tow, and we frolicked along the boardwalk and aquarium of uShaka Marine World, the very South African complex of tourist spot/odd historical statement, named after both the Zulu king and the loan word for ‘Shark.’ We then dipped our toes in the Indian Ocean after a day filled with manata rays, sharks, and lengthy complex conversations on postcolonialism and positionality. It restored my energy for anotehr week of learning. I think that wraps this update up, but next week I’m leaving for a weeklong stay in Imbali, the Zulu township outside of Pietermaritzburg, where I’m staying with a local Zulu family. I won’t lie. I’m nervous. And excited. Your poop smearing comrade in arms, T.J.